Tips & Inspiration

Last updated: May 6, 2026 — by Stitchi Studio

You've spent hours — or weeks — on your piece. Now for the final stage: finishing your embroidery. Many embroiderers find this the most exciting moment, as there's no turning back. In this article, we list the three most popular ways to finish your work: framing, stretching, and leaving it in the hoop. Including all tips to make it look professional.

First: Preparing your piece for finishing

However you ultimately present it — these steps are the same for all methods:

1. Secure loose threads

Turn your work over and look at the back. Neatly weave long loose threads under your existing stitches (weave in for 3-4 cm, then trim). Do this carefully — sheer fabric will reveal messy work later.

2. Trim loose ends

Don't leave long tails — they can show through later or get caught when ironing.

3. Wash your work (optional but recommended)

While working, your palms and the fabric can get sweaty, greasy, or dusty. Hand wash your work before finishing in lukewarm water with a mild detergent. Do not wring — dry flat between towels.

Important: Only do this if you are sure your thread is colorfast. Mouliné thread usually is, but test a corner if in doubt.

4. Iron your work flat

Place a towel on your ironing board, lay your work face-down on it, and iron from the back on a low setting. This will keep your cross-stitches fluffy and flat at the same time.

Option 1: Framing in a picture frame

The classic — and for good reason. A framed cross-stitch piece looks finished, presentable, and fits into any interior.

What you need:

• A picture frame with appropriate inner dimensions (allow your work to be well-centered)
• A piece of matboard or museum board of the same size
• Pins to temporarily secure the fabric while centering

Step-by-step plan

1. Lay your ironed fabric face down on a table.
2. Place the cardboard in the center of the fabric.
3. Fold the overhanging fabric around the edges of the cardboard — taut but not so taut that your piece distorts.
4. Secure the fabric with pins into the side of the cardboard, or carefully attach the overhang with archival-safe tape.
5. Place the assembly in the frame, close the back.

Doubt if it's centered? Hold the frame up to the light — this way you can see if your piece is straight.

Tip: Have it professionally framed

For your large and favorite pieces: a framer. They can provide acid-free materials (crucial for long-term preservation), stretched mounting, and a truly beautiful overall finish. Expect to pay €50–150 for an average size.

Option 2: Stretching on a wooden frame

Also known as "stretched": your work is tightly stretched over a wooden panel — without glass. Modern, minimalist, and you can better see the tactile structure of the cross-stitches.

What you need:

• A wooden panel or canvas frame of the correct size
• A stapler (a regular tacker is fine)
• Optionally: a layer of thin cotton batting for extra thickness

Step-by-step plan

1. Place the panel in the center of your work.
2. Start in the middle of one side: pull the fabric tightly to the back and secure one staple.
3. Do the same on the opposite side — pull tightly.
4. Work outwards to the corners, alternating opposite sides.
5. Fold the corners neatly like a gift package and secure with staples.

Result: a piece that can be tightly stretched and hung on the wall, without a frame.

Option 3: Leaving it in the embroidery hoop

The easiest and most common method nowadays: your work remains in the embroidery hoop you worked with. Wooden hoops look beautiful and make the piece ready to hang immediately.

Step-by-step plan

1. Re-hoop your ironed piece — tighter than when you were working.
2. Trim the excess fabric around, leaving about 2 cm allowance.
3. Fold that overhang inwards behind the hoop — if necessary, with a line of glue or a layer of stitching.
4. Cut a felt or fabric circle in the same color and glue/stick it to the back. Provides a neat finish.
5. Attach a loop or hook to the top of the hoop — ready to hang.

Advantage: your piece is ready for the wall in 15 minutes. Disadvantage: not protected by glass (but less susceptible to dust than you might think).

Option 4: Turning it into a cushion or bag

For the advanced crafter — or if you are good with a sewing machine. Your work becomes part of a cushion cover (16 × 16 cm or 30 × 30 cm for a statement cushion) or a beautiful bag. Works wonderfully as a personalized gift.

Combine with a plain back in the same color family, add a zipper or button closure — and you have a unique interior piece.

Which method suits what?

• Small work (15–20 cm): leave it in the embroidery hoop or frame it.
• Medium (20–40 cm): frame or stretch.
• Large (40+ cm): frame with mat, or stretch on a large panel.
• Gift: in the embroidery hoop — looks festive and requires little extra work.
Your own interior: what suits your style. Industrial decor? Sleek black frame. Boho-look? Wooden hoop or stretched.

Common mistakes when finishing

1. Not washing, and seeing stains afterwards. Washing before finishing is cheap insurance.
2. Framing too tightly. Leave a 2–3 cm margin around your work — otherwise the frame will cut off your stitches.
3. Ironing on the front. Cross stitches become flat. Always iron from the back with a towel in between.
4. Cheap cardboard in the frame. Acidic cardboard will turn your fabric yellow after a few years. Use museum board.
5. Fabric too thin for the hoop method. Glue a layer of felt behind your work to prevent show-through.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does my work need glass?

Glass protects against dust and UV — sensible if your work hangs in direct light. For a living room with subdued light, it often works without glass too. If you use glass: choose anti-reflective glass for the best look.

What if my piece has stains that won't come out?

Try Oxi powder or a mild stain remover in lukewarm water (only on colorfast thread). If it doesn't help — frame it and make sure the stain falls outside the central image. The story behind a piece is often more charming than perfection.

Can I have my work framed without it being stretched?

Ask your framer for this — they will then attach your work loosely to the cardboard with archival-safe tape, instead of stretching it. Slightly less taut, but reversible.

How do I store my unfinished pieces?

Flat in a box, separated by acid-free paper. Do not fold along the same line — creases can always remain visible.

Ready to start?

Don't have a piece to finish yet? Check out our embroidery kit with your own photo and choose a pattern that matches where you want to hang it later. Also read our beginner's guide and the guide to choosing embroidery hoops if you are still in doubt about your materials.